DIY tips for how to clean aircon

DIY tips for how to clean aircon

Your ductwork can be the source of a major loss of heat and money if they leak air. Every homeowner should make sure that their ductwork is tight and heating the house, not the attic. So you need to find out how to seal air conditioning vent? Here’s some tips on checking your air ducts for leaks.

Does Your Duct Work Leak Air and Waste Energy?

One of the easiest ways of telling whether or not your duct work has leaks is to simply open your eyes and look for the signs that professionals would initially utilize.

When I walk into a home for the purpose of giving an estimate to replace an existing furnace or air conditioner, one of the first things I do is look for signs that might approximate the age of the existing system. I walk into the home and immediately look to see if the heated or cooled air comes out of the ceiling or the floor. If the air comes out of the floor, my job is really easy.

I walk to the diffuser in the floor(the air grill) and I pull the grill up and expose the sheet metal can beneath it. I am specifically looking for two things here. The type of duct work that is connected to the can and whether or not the can is just jammed into a hole in the floor with no sealing allowing air to escape around the can/floor connection or if the can is sealed with caulking or tape.

The type of duct work gives me a really good indicator as to possible leakage. If the existing duct work is metal, I look to see if there are sheet metal screws holding the duct work to the can or not. Simply look down into the duct , down to the point where the duct turns into an elbow and there you should be able to see some screw threads sticking through to the inside of the can indicating that screws are holding the duct system together.

You can stop an air leak by finding out how to seal air conditioning vent. I have come across a ton of old duct systems that were merely taped together, and after years of service, the tape and its glue dry out and the tape no longer seals the duct system.

If there are screws it does not mean your system is sealed with tape or paint, it merely indicates that the ductwork is probably held together with screws through out the system. metal duct usually is put together in either 3-6 or 10 ft sections. If it is metal, the chances of the system using tape to seal it is quite high, as 30-40 years ago they did not use a painted on sealant like we use today. Your chances of having tape as a sealant and having that sealant dried out and no longer doing it’s job are quite high, but you should keep on looking for other signs of leakage.

Generally in my experience if there are no screws in a metal duct system at the boot connection, then most likely the system was taped together and if you have ever had anyone crawling around your sub floor and it’s tight, then the chances of breakage or leakage of the system are increased greatly.

Insulation Ducting

If your furnace is in the garage or a closet and you can physically see it, then look to see what type of insulation was used to insulate it. If it is pink or yellow insulation, look for dark stains that would indicate air leakage. This is an indicator on yellow and pink insulation because what occurs is that air leaking out causes dust to build up around its leakage points and this dust build up leaves black lines along the entire leakage connection.

I look for large and small dark stains on the insulation and if I see them, I pull the insulation back and look to see if there is a sheet metal connection behind the insulation that is not sealed. If there is a connection behind the insulation that is not sealed then I have a good idea that if the installer missed this easy to see easy to seal connection, they obviously did not take care where the connections were more difficult to get to.

I am positive at this point, there is at least a 90% chance that the system has leakage-especially since I had just found evidence. I would recommend at this point that when they have the furnace or air conditioner replaced, that they have good quality duct sealing done to the system.

If you happen to have a good digital thermometer another thing you can do if the ductwork is metal and located in the sub floor, is to make sure the system is off and then measure the temperature of the sub floor area before you turn the system on. Lets say you open the crawl space hatch and put your thermometer down there for about a minute or so.

Read and record the temperature, suppose that you measure your sub floor temperature with the system off and read it to be 50 degrees. Then go turn your system into heat and turn the temperature dial all the way up as high as it goes. Let the system run for about 15 minutes.

You will have some heat gain simply from a lack of insulation in various parts of the system and can expect a small increase in temperature, but if after 15 or 20 minutes you measure that the sub floor temperature has gone up by 5 -10 degrees or more, I would suspect that there is at least some significant leakage.

However, if you do not read any temperature rise it does not indicate no leakage. This might only indicate that leakage is not near the point where you made measurements.

The best way to identify leakage is with a duct pressure test or to crawl around and physically look at every piece of duct in your system for leakage indicators.

We hope you have got some useful information about how to seal air conditioning vent from our Home Improvement Experts.

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Choosing bathroom trim moulding

Choosing bathroom trim moulding

This article discusses the methods required for installing bathroom trim moulding.

One of the best decorative elements you can install in the bathroom is custom moulding. While this is not the easiest DIY project, it is well within the capabilities of a handy homeowner.

Selection is the first hurdle to overcome. That can be ultra-easy, maybe too easy. Some might just pick anything and slap it on. But the results will be disappointing. Take some time to explore the available choices. Envision the final result and how it integrates with the overall design scheme.

A classic Greek look, for example, will fit well with a marble floor and brass water fixtures. But it will be out of place in a Colonial setting. A dark English gentleman’s club style moulding will clash with a bathroom decorated in pastels and perfume bottles.

Once you have the right style, the project is straightforward. It just requires patience and careful workmanship.

Bathroom trim moulding can be ordered pre-cut to the proper length, complete with corner cuts. But rarely will the results be sufficiently exact. The reason is that the cuts will be made well in order to fit the pieces together at, say, 45∞ angles.

But few bathrooms are constructed so precisely. The moulding will either be flat against the wall and have a gap at the joint, or the joint will be perfect, but the pieces will shift away from the wall. To get them right for your bathroom some on-the-spot cutting is usually needed. But it’s easier to make one cut on a flat piece than shave a pre-cut piece, especially if the pre-cut is already stained.

Measure carefully the corners of your bathroom wherever you plan to place moulding. Not all are exactly 90∞. Don’t assume that the walls come together at the same angle at the floor as at the ceiling. It will be close, but not exact.

Corners can be cut precisely to your needs with a compound miter saw. If you don’t own one, you can mark the pieces to your exact specifications, then take them to the local Home Depot and have them cut. It’s always better to cut too little rather than too much. You can shave or sand small amounts during installation.

Allow also for the fact that walls are not always perfectly flat. Some adjustments will be needed for walls that bow or scoop slightly. That can be handled by carefully shaving the back of the moulding. But it’s easier to use somewhat flexible material and use glue or a series of small nails to press the moulding into the exact right position along the wall.

Once everything is cut and shaped just right, the rest is easy. Nail the moulding into place using small finishing nails long enough to penetrate the moulding and about 1/4 inch of wall. In some spots, you may want to use some wood putty or Liquid Nail-type glue to get an exact fit.

Then paint or stain the bathroom trim moulding to match your desired look. It is possible to pre-paint or stain, but hammering and shaving will often present the need for some touch-up. On the other hand, staining or painting in place requires great care. Which is preferable depends on your individual skills with brush and hammer.

We hope you have got some useful information about choosing bathroom trim moulding from our Home Improvement Experts.

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Repair A Leaking Outdoor Tap

Repair A Leaking Outdoor Tap

Outside water spigots are one of the most common sources of water leak around the home. Do you need advice about how to repair a leaking outdoor tap? Sometimes they only leak when the water is turned on. In more extreme cases they leak all the time, sometimes a small drip, other times a serious flow. But all these problems are easy and inexpensive to repair.

If the spigot only leaks when the valve is turned counter clockwise, it may well be just a worn rubber grommet at the base of the valve stem. Like most rubber washers they eventually get compressed or develop small holes.

That’s easy to fix with a cheap, temporary repair job. Remove the nut that fits onto the spigot in which the stem sits. Grab a foot long length of Teflon plumber’s tape and wrap it around the base of the stem behind the nut. Get the tape in as far as you can and wind it over and over itself. Then tighten the nut to compress the tape back against the washer. That will stop many small leaks.

Be sure to check the other side of the pipe to which the spigot attaches, though. It’s possible to plug up one leak, only to cause the water to find another way out. If there is more than one hole, water will now drip inside the house. Not a good situation.

For more extensive leaks, replacing the sillcock (as it’s called) is generally fairly easy. It may require two people, though – one on the outside of the house and another in the crawlspace where the pipe enters the house.

Shut off the main valve to ensure no water will flow when you remove the old spigot and sillcock of the leaking outdoor tap.

The sillcock that supports the spigot is usually a 10-12 inch piece of threaded pipe that winds onto a water supply pipe inside the house. It takes only moderate force to unwind it in some cases. For those that have been on a long time, small amounts of oxidation can cause the sillcock to be stuck on firmly.

For those cases, a good pair of vice grips or a pipe wrench can be used on the inside of the sillcock. The threads are usually grooved in front of a nut that is an integrated part of the pipe leading to the outside spigot. Attach the wrench firmly to the ‘nut’ to ensure there’s no slippage. You don’t want to strip the metal smooth.

Give a good yank while keeping the pipe to which it’s attached still. That can be accomplished by using a good pair of wide-jaw pliers gripped and directed in the opposite direction. It’s important not to twist the pipe the sillcock threads onto, since it can be broken. That would lead to a job requiring welding or replacement of an entire length of pipe.

Sillcocks are usually no more than $10, even the anti-siphon style that prevents trapped frozen water from breaking the pipe. They screw back on easily. Just wind on a length of Teflon plumber’s tape in the right direction first. Make sure the tape is stretched tighter not loosened as you wind on the new sillcock.

We hope you have got some useful information about repairing a leaking outdoor tap from our Home Improvement Experts.

If you have any DIY tips you would like to share, visit our about us page and leave a comment.

Install Bathroom Vanity Units With Sink

Install Bathroom Vanity Units With Sink

One of the best ways to make a big change in the look of your old bathrooms is to bathroom vanity units with sink. While installing a new vanity isn’t the easiest do-it-yourself project to undertake. it can be one of the most rewarding. At the end, you have a whole new area that is not only functional but livens up the bathroom decor.

Removing the old sink and cabinetry is the first step, of course. As always, turn off any water valves and open the tap to get as much out of the pipes as possible before disconnecting the hoses and pipes.

One literal sticking point is that most will be attached to the wall not only by easy-to-remove screws, but by caulk as well. That requires a patient, but necessary, slow chipping away with a utility knife until the sink is free of the wall and/or floor. The alternative is to simply rip it out, creating a much larger refinishing job at the end.

Once the old stuff is gone the fun begins.

Some re-finishing will be helpful. With such an open and easily accessible area, it’s the perfect time to do any needed sanding. Some will be tempted to paint or wallpaper at this stage. That’s an option but keep in mind that it really raises the bar on the need to be careful putting the new vanity in place.

Measure the height from the floor and distance from one wall of all pipes and hoses. We assume you considered those before buying a replacement to fit the space. So this step is to ensure that the replacement slides in to just the right place.

Part of that effort may involve cutting and/or drilling any needed holes in the back of the new vanity. Hot and cold water hoses have to snake through these in the under-the-sink section. Ditto the drain pipe(s) from the wall.

Now for a key task: make sure that everything is level.

Very few floors are perfectly level and even a custom-made vanity will not have had the base cut to compensate. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to shim around the base to prevent any wobble or excess pressure on one side. Then the remainder can be caulked to close up any gaps.

It’s theoretically possible to shave the base of the vanity instead, but the effort would rarely be worth the trouble. It is important to consider this before fitting your bathroom vanity units with sink.

Once that’s taken care of, the easy steps are all that’s left. Locate a couple of wall studs behind the vanity and under the countertop. Use them to provide a secure mounting area to fasten the nailer (a flat section of the vanity at the rear) to the wall. Pre-drill a couple of holes with a bit a little smaller than the wood screws. Then fasten.

Lay a bead of plumber’s putty around the rim of the vanity for the sink and lower the sink into place. It will squeeze out some of the putty, top and bottom. Scrape the excess from the top using a cuticle tool or ice cream stick, then wipe the remainder off with a slightly damp sponge before it dries.

We hope you have got some useful information about how to install a bathroom vanity units with sink from our Home Improvement Experts.

If you have any DIY tips you would like to share, visit our about us page and leave a comment.

Basement Concrete Floor Finishes: Basement Floor Options

Basement Concrete Floor Finishes: Basement Floor Options

There are quite a few different options for concrete floor finishes. Concrete flooring is a traditional option in basements. It may have been an extension of the original foundation, or poured because it provides an ultra-durable surface for a basement laundry room, kids playroom or other use. But concrete flooring has come out of hiding, and not only because it wears like, well, concrete. This makes it a great option for your basement flooring.

Concrete floors can be finished with an extremely smooth, polished surface. Since they stand up to just about anything, they’re great for areas that track in snow, mud, sand and other outdoor materials. But they can also be highly attractive.

Modern techniques can turn that plain grey floor into something that looks like marble, slate or highly polished ceramic. Acids designed to react with the lime in concrete can etch the surface. They blend in to produce a veined look or a geometric design that can simulate marble or tile. Dyes mixed with or paints applied later can turn that surface into any colour or any painted design that the homeowner wants.

Polished Basement Concrete Floors

Polished Concrete Floor is one option for concrete floor finishes. The metallic salts used prepares the top layer, then acid in a chemical stain reacts with the lime deposits in the concrete. That creates a colour or surface effect that can cover a wide range of choices. But, take care, the effects are permanent. Re-doing it would require removing a considerable portion of the surface, which is usually prohibitively expensive.

Even adding the cost of that finishing job, the total price can be much lower than other options. Hardwood floors are durable and beautiful, but they can run £6-£10 per square foot or more. Concrete, even finished, can easily be less than half that. And, when the job is done there are no tell-tale seams.

Surface effects or custom painted floors are durable and super easy to clean. Dirt mops up easily. With the exception of certain acids, it’s very difficult to stain them. Automotive oil will, of course. But that’s rarely a problem where concrete is used in the home outside the garage. Even that can be prevented with the proper surface treatment.

Concrete floors can even be a healthier alternative to carpets, throw rugs and the like. Dust cleans up easily and doesn’t stay trapped in the surface. That reduces dust mites. Other allergens such as pollen, pet dander and even smoke residue can be easily eliminated. Concrete can even be wiped with a mild disinfectant such as bleach or an anti-fungal liquid to reduce the chances even further.

Keep in mind, though, that even treated concrete surfaces can crack. Since they’re coloured or contain surface effects, the crack may not show as prominently. But they can still provide a home for moisture and hence mildew. As always, it’s still important to keep the concrete surface dry. A short-term exposure from snow, mopping and so forth is unimportant. But water that stays down for days or weeks can lead to problems.

Also, staining isn’t completely predictable. Because of variations in lime content, temperature and other factors, the results can differ slightly from what was envisioned.

But these minor issues aside, concrete flooring can be one of the best options available for certain applications.

We hope you have got some useful information about basement concrete floor finishes from our Home Improvement Experts.

If you have any DIY tips you would like to share, visit our about us page and leave a comment.

DIY Bathroom Drain Repair

DIY Bathroom Drain Repair

Bathtub drains seem like they attract clogs. At some point you may require bathroom drain repair. And eventually you’ll find you will need to repair or replace one.

Bathroom drains tend to require maintenance or repair a little more often than those in the kitchen. The bath has no garbage disposal and the kitchen drain doesn’t get anywhere near as much hair. The sink drain is the most likely culprit. Hand soap, toothpaste, hair and other things tend to gum it up.

Bathtub Drain Repair – DIY Tips for Replacing Bathtub Drains

A mixture of a 1/4 cup of baking soda and a cup of vinegar is an inexpensive home remedy that will unclog many plugs. It has the added advantage of removing calcium carbonate (the white chalky deposits), which opens up the pipe and clears the space between the sink flange and the stopper. If that’s not strong enough, use a commercial drain opener chemical. They’re safe for the pipes and the environment. They degrade rapidly.

For more stubborn cases, just remove the U-shaped pipe under the sink (sometimes called a trap or trap bend). Ninety-percent of anything that fell down the drain or is gumming up the works will get trapped at the bottom of the ‘U’. Clear it out, apply Teflon plumber’s tape and replace the pipe. Be sure to wrap the tape in a direction that tightens it into the threads as you secure the nut, rather than unwinds it.

The bathtub drain represents a more difficult problem. Obviously so, since it’s harder to get at the hardware underneath the tub. They usually come with a screen to prevent problems, but as time goes on it often gets knocked out of the way or removed. Then hair, shampoo caps and a dozen other things end up in the drain.

A plumber’s snake (also called an ‘auger’) can help remove stubborn clogs. Some have small ‘fingers’ on the end that can be clamped together to retrieve a fallen object.

Many designs have a stopper that can be pushed down or pulled up to open or close the drain. This offers a solution to bathroom drain repair. They simply unscrew, giving some access to the drain. Others operate by a lever built in to the tub. Removing the overflow plate gives access to an assembly that can be removed. That will release the drain stopper.

In more extreme cases, it may be necessary to replace the drain. Below the stopper is a metal fitting (sometimes called a ‘drain basket’) with a pair of metal pieces in the shape of an X. A dumbbell wrench (sometimes called a ‘basket wrench’) is used to remove it.

If that doesn’t give enough access to remove anything inside, it will be necessary to remove a section of wall to get to the drain and overflow pipes. Consider having a professional do this. If you want to proceed, the replacement kits are not expensive, around £15.

Once you have access to the area, the assembly is relatively easy to remove with a standard pipe wrench or wide-jaw pliers to get loose the slip-joint nuts. Seat the new parts in place and adjust the rod to the correct length to open and close the stopper. Then use Teflon plumber’s tape on the pipes and plumber’s putty on the drain flange to seal the new parts properly.

We hope you have got some useful information about DIY  bathroom drain repair from our Home Improvement Experts.

If you have any DIY tips you would like to share, visit our about us page and leave a comment.

Budget decorating ideas for small bathrooms

Budget decorating ideas for small bathrooms

This article offers small bathroom colour ideas. Painting a bathroom brings with it special considerations. No other room in the house produces hot moist air in a small, enclosed space.

First and foremost, that affects the selection of paint. Water-resistant, temperature-durable high gloss is usually selected for a reason. It provides good coverage to ensure that the moisture stays on the bathroom interior side of the wall. Moisture that seeps through cracks or, worse, goes right through the wall will inevitably lead to mildew build up.

That leads to an important task that has to be carried out before any painting is done. Any cracks, gaps or other openings have to be sealed properly before laying down the first coat. In some cases that will mean a silicon caulk around the vanity where the wall meets any moulding. In others it’s just a matter of repairing any drywall splits or other damage.

Preparation is key to a good paint job. Apart from sealing cracks, sand any previous paint well. Slick, high-gloss paint is designed to shed anything that hits the surface. To get the best result, that surface needs to be roughened to remove the topmost layer, then smoothed to provide a good surface for re-painting.

Tips for Painting Bathrooms

Even prior to sanding, though, a good cleaning may be necessary. Greasy handprints from the kids, dirt swipes from a dog’s swishing tail and a host of other things can appear on a wall very quickly. Make sure they’re all gone before you get out the sandpaper. Ask an interior design expert for small bathroom colour ideas. They will match your existing furniture to your ideas.

Once you’ve done the initial preparation of the surface, in terms of both cleaning and sanding, make sure it’s ready to receive paint in one more way. Any surface blemishes may appear trivial in this raw state. But once they receive high-gloss paint they’ll be magnified many times. It takes more time to get things in shape before getting out the roller. But the final results will be well worth the effort.

There’s one more item to consider before beginning, and it involves going back to paint selection issues one more time. Colour. This isn’t as easy a choice as it might appear.

The basic colour scheme of the bathroom provides the background for all other decorating decisions. A cheery yellow will simply never go with Victorian bronze fixtures. A subtle beige is too subdued to integrate well with bright brass taps.

Beyond the background colour, there’s the issue of selecting any contrasting or highlighting paint. Stained moulding and fixtures represent one way to offset colours. But bathrooms today are rarely one continuous colour of paint. Vertical stripes on one wall, horizontal trim at the top of a wall and many other more complex designs turn a bathroom paint job into an art project.

Give careful thought to the overall final look desired and you can’t go wrong. Prepare well and execution will be easy. Now, paint!

We hope you have got some useful information about small bathroom colour ideas from our Home Improvement Experts.

If you have any DIY tips you would like to share, visit our about us page and leave a comment.

Anti Siphon Valve Installation To Protect Plumbing

Anti Siphon Valve Installation To Protect Plumbing

You can use anti siphon valve installation to protect plumbing. Anti-siphon faucets are a must have for homeowners who live in cold winter climates. For just a few dollars you can avoid having to replace an outdoor spigot due to low temperatures. Let’s take a look at how an anti siphon faucet works.

In areas where winter temperatures get below 20F/-7C, it’s possible for trapped water in the spigot and sillcock to freeze and expand. The figure is approximate. It’s certainly possible for that same water to freeze at 32F/0C, but heat from the house helps lower the ‘danger point’ temperature somewhat.

Protect Plumbing From Freezing with Anti Siphon Valves

That ice now presents two possible problems, similar to those that cause pipes under the house to sometimes burst in winter.

The ice takes up more room than the water did. You can test that by filling a cup exactly to the rim with water then putting it into the freezer. You’ll note that the ice sticks slightly above the rim. That extra volume is no problem when the top is open. But when the water/ice has nowhere to expand, it raises the pressure on the container. Raise it enough and you can break a seal.

The major effect, though, is due to the fact that the pressure builds up beyond the ice block. Air and water have nowhere to go. The air is compressible, but any trapped water will create high pressure on the internal parts of the sillcock and spigot. Even strong metals, made more brittle by the cold anyway, can be split. Plastic and cold-hardened rubber are doomed.

When the weather warms again and everything melts, you now have a spigot with a crack. If it doesn’t leak spontaneously, turning it on will guarantee a drip or worse. This is when you may require anti siphon valve installation.

An anti-siphon spigot contains an additional mechanism beyond the ordinary outdoor water faucet. Hoses attach like normal, but inside and out they have features to prevent the spigot from bursting due to ice blockage and expansion.

A few things help prevent the anti-siphon spigot from cracking like an ordinary one.

The seal/valve that actually shuts off the water flow is further back in the sillcock – inside the house, which is warmer. That helps prevent cold temperatures from reaching the water. More helpful still is the ability of the sillcock to withdraw water away from areas where ice buildup can be a problem. It keeps the water from remaining near seals that can be frozen and cracked by low temperatures.

But most importantly, the design of the sillcock/spigot allows for the relief of pressure for any ice that does form. It gives a place for expanding water to go when pressure builds up in other parts of the sillcock/spigot.

Even so, in warm conditions and with normal use, it’s possible for anti-siphon spigots to leak out the top pressure-relieving spout or elsewhere. Kits with replacement seals and other internal parts are available for a few dollars. For those who prefer to repair rather than replace, or if the other end of the sillcock is difficult to access, these kits can save money and time.

We hope you have got some useful information about anti siphon valve installation from our Home Improvement Experts.

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What Is The Best Plumbing Pipe Leak Sealer?

What Is The Best Plumbing Pipe Leak Sealer?

What is the best plumbing pipe leak sealer? What are the best methods for preventing plumbing leaks – Plumbers Putty or Pipe Tape?

Sealing pipes and hoses during plumbing projects is critical. But how to do that correctly can be a little trickier than you might think.

The first tip follows the old mechanic’s rule: the right tool for the right job.

Plumbers Putty or Pipe Tape?

Select sealant according to its proper purpose. Use plumber’s putty for securing sink flanges when installing a garbage disposal unit. Use special-made toilet bowl grease to seal the base of the bowl to the trap (the hole or pipe out which the water is flushed). Use silicon caulk for shower pipes and spouts. And so on.

Never be tempted to substitute, for example, PVC pipe glue to seal a flange or sink where plumber’s putty is called for. Don’t use it to secure hoses. You’ll never get them loose again and, someday, they will have to be replaced.

Be sparing but not stingy.

The right amount of plumber’s putty, say a 1/4 inch bead around the rim of a newly installed sink, makes for a good seal. Use too much and you have an unsightly mess. Too little and you can end up with small holes or cracks that lead to leaks.

Remove any excess before it can dry, but take care not to wipe so strongly that you take away what’s supposed to be there. Also, excess sealant, whether plumber’s putty or silicon caulk, can leave ridges that give you something to bump against with a pan or knife. That can lead to tearing. Simply wipe the excess with a finger or slightly damp sponge shortly after application. Then, carefully wipe up any smears before they dry.

Be generous with Teflon plumber’s tape.

Teflon plumber’s tape is a great plumbing pipe leak sealer. It is possible to use too much, leading to small channels through which water can escape. But it’s rare. It’s extremely flexible and compressible. That makes it hard to overdo the job. However, if you wind on too much it can make fitting on a new hose or threading a pipe difficult or impossible.

Wind it in the proper direction.

When fitting on a hose, it doesn’t matter which way the tape is wound. But if the project calls for threading on a pipe, twisting can undo the Teflon tape. Wind the tape so that the tail points in the direction you will wind onto. That way, as you tighten the fitting, you’re stretching the plumber’s tape further. That leads to a good tight seal, rather than loosening the tape and making it useless.

Avoid torn ends.

Sometimes it will be a lot easier to simply stretch the tape until it breaks or tear it with your teeth. When you’re under the sink on your back with only one hand, the temptation to do that is large. Resist it. Sometimes you’ll get away with it. Many times, it will lead to re-doing the job after you’ve already tightened on the new fitting.

A clean end at the beginning allows the Teflon tape to seat into threads without leaving ragged high spots. Ditto on the tail. In either case, a ragged edge produces an uneven layer that will encourage small cracks. Water drips are not far behind.

Use sealants and tape according to their design and you’ll have a well-sealed hose or pipe. That eliminates water damage and messes… and the need to re-do the job.

We hope you have got some useful information about using plumbing pipe leak sealer from our Home Improvement Experts.

If you have any DIY tips you would like to share, visit our about us page and leave a comment.

Ideas For Bathroom Decor: Curtains and Rods

Ideas For Bathroom Decor: Curtains and Rods

Are you looking for ideas for bathroom decor? Bathrooms are often a great place to add a little decorating touch. Many homes have more than one bathroom, so you can have multiple themes that fit the primary occupant’s tastes, and you can make each one unique. One way to add that individual touch is with a unique shower curtain and rods, or even a unique toilet seat.

Bathroom with wooden features
Bathroom with wooden features. Aaron Huber @aahubs

These relatively simple items serve that dual goal mentioned above. They provide a function: to keep the water from the shower inside the shower and off the bathroom floor. But they are also a major contributor to the look of the whole bath.

Enter the bathroom of a friend or acquaintance. You might first see the lovely brass sink fixtures or an outstanding vanity. But you can’t escape noticing very soon the beautiful shower curtain and the elegant rod that holds it in place.

Like curtains for other rooms, they reflect the personality of the occupant. They give an opportunity to create a design scheme that is reflected in the towels, the washcloth holder, and other decorative and useful bathroom elements.

For the kids’ bath it might be something fun, say a superhero theme. Spiderman can protect the floor from water while the kids battle that evil grime they picked up outside. Younger children may like the look of their favorite cartoon character displayed near the tub. It can encourage a reluctant one to get in it.

For the parents, a country theme might be just what is called for. A scene of bears in a forest, sharpening their claws on tall pines, can provide an atmosphere of calming nature. At the same time the deep greens and browns offer a color scheme that can be reflected in the towels.

But don’t forget about the curtain rod.

Though they get second billing, they are still vital to integrate with the total design. Why spend good money getting the perfect light muslin shower curtain for a sailing theme, only to spoil it with a cheap white plastic rod? Instead, look for an elegant chrome or brass to complete the appearance of ship’s gear.

Look for one that offers more than just a sturdy straight line from one wall to the next. Look for something that has ends designed to match the rest of the decorating effort. These are great ideas for bathroom décor.

In the sailing case, that might be something as simple as hooked ends to resemble a cleat used to tie off a sail. In the kids’ case it might have a cute little faux-wrought iron web near the wall. In the country theme it might have the color and shape of a tree limb.

In all cases the rod and curtain either form the base of or continue the scheme of the whole bathroom. That expands this utilitarian space into another room full of beauty. After all, most people spend more than 5% of their waking day in the bathroom. Make it a pleasant place to be with the right shower rod and curtain.

We hope you have got some useful information about ideas for bathroom décor from our Home Improvement Experts.

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